Merchandising

Merchandising is the methods, practices, and operations used to promote and sustain certain categories of commercial activity. In the broadest sense, merchandising is any practice which contributes to the sale of products to a retail consumer. At a retail in-store level, merchandising refers to the variety of products available for sale and the display of those products in such a way that it stimulates interest and entices customers to make a purchase.

Merchandising is a professional area of study, which focuses on various aspects of the fashion industry. this is the business of fashion, this offers many opportunity for trained and experienced people who can demonstrate both creative and business skills. Solid communication skills, a keen sense of taste, and a service first attitude are needed for this one on one career. Buyers often work closely with fashion merchandisers to help decide the styles, colors, patterns, and sizes of clothing and accessories to put in the stores. 

Quality Check Steps (Part 01)

Quality Check Steps (Part 01)

A) Yarn quality and yarn count check.          

B) Lab dip approval

C) Grey fabric check at the knitting stage,

D) Fabrics, collar cuff, rib etc check with approval

E) Fabrics feel in-house test report check each batch.

F) Shrinkage, gsm, color fastness double check in own office.

G) Shade continuity card all dye lot and keep record.

H) Bulk fabrics approval color wise (if necessary style and order wise also)

2) Pre production:

Pre production sample approval with all accessories (actual)

3) Cutting:

A) Pattern check with approval sample and spec

B) Test cutting should cover all the sizes and color.

C) Check measurement details.

D) Bulk cutting approval and fabrics lay as per buyer requirement.

4) Sewing:

A) Check accessories, trim with approval

B) Check machineries fitness

C) Check stitch count per inch all sewing operation as per buyer requirement.

D) Machine feet "pressure mark" all swe1ng operation (i.e. placket, placket box, collar, rib and armhole) must be control. Machine feet pressure- mark for darker color not acceptable.

E) Machine tension (O/l, P/m, F/L) operation wise check.

F) For ale the trousers make sure that back & forth stitching on the crouch.

  

5) Finishing:

A) Press garments flat, do not press front placket, collar, front panel armhole and all seam area.

B) All over lock raw edges (i.e. Armhole side seam) laying under the garments same direction

C) For darker color iron show must be used before ironing.

D) Folding and card board marks is not show when garments is flat.

E) Any accessories mark (it. Label, hang tag, tag pin, safety pin, button) are not acceptable.

6) Packing:

A) After folding garments should be neat and clean both side than put in to poly bag and sealed

B) Presentation and get up check before carton.

C) No pressures when closed the carton.

D) Top, bottom, card board and divider must be need before closing the carton’s

Different types of Cotton Yarn

Depends on the quality there are mainly two types of cotton yarn are normally found in our production field.   Those are as follows:

Combed Yarn : The yarn which is made from finest and longer fiber we called combed yarn. 
This type of yarn is very fine for Fabric production. Please find below some points of combed yarn

• Quality of this types of yarn is very Smooth.
• Even very soft yarn. 
• The strength is higher than other (carded) types yarn.
• Price  is higher than other (carded) types yarn.
• Softness is higher than other (carded) types yarn. 
• It produces high quality fabrics.

Carded yarn : The yarn which is made form short staple and lower quality fiber are called Carded yarn. Mainly the the name card come from a machine of spinning section. Carding is an operation , that occurred in spinning section. The yarn which is formed by carding operation is called carded yarn.

Please find below some points of carded yarn

This types of yarns are –

• Low cost
• Harder hand fillings.
• Strength low.
• It is use to produce normally low quality fabrics.
• Dyeing and knitting wastage is very high.

Estimating Thread Consumption

Thread Consumption Formulas

It is important to know the amount of thread consumed in a sewn product so you can:

1)    Estimate the number of cones needed; and Calculate the cost of the thread needed to manufacture the finished product. Thread consumption can be determined in several ways.

To calculate the amount of thread in a seam, you can:

Measure the actual amount of thread consumed in a specific length of seam.

Calculate the thread consumption by using mathematical stitch formulas based on the thickness of the seam and the number of stitches per inch.

Calculate the thread consumption using thread consumption estimates.

Measuring Actual Thread Consumed

A specified length of the seam, for example 3 inches, is measured on the seam and then the thread is removed by carefully unraveling the stitch. You can then calculate the amount of thread consumed in one inch and multiply this factor times the total length of the seam measured in inches.

Example:

Length of seam is 42 inches or 1.17 yards.

Stitch and seam construction: 401 SSa-1.

Specified length of thread removed from a seam equals 3 inches.

Needle thread removed = 9 inches

Looper thread removed = 8 inches

Calculation:

Needle thread factor = 9 ¸ 3 = 3 inches of needle thread per inch of seam.

Looper thread factor = 8 ¸ 3 = 2.67 inches of looper thread per inch of seam.

Total needle thread consumed = factor 3 X 1.17yds = 3.51 yds

Total looper thread consumed = factor 2.67 X 1.17yds = 3.12 yds

Total Thread = 3.51 + 3.12 = 6.63 yards per seam.

Generally, a 15 to 20% waste factor is added due to chaining-off, thread breaks,repairs, etc.

 If a waste factor of 15% is selected then: 6.63 yards/seam X 1.15 = 7.62 yards/seam including 15% waste factor.

  

Obviously, you must do this for each seam to determine the total amount of thread consumed in the finished product.

Thread Consumption Formulas

Union Special Machine Company published a "Thread Consumption Booklet" that consists of a number of thread consumption formulas for various stitch types based on the stitch length and thickness of the seam. These mathematically derived consumption factors can be multiplied times the length of the seam to estimate the combined amount of top and bottom thread. On some overedge and coverstitch types it is necessary to also know the seam width or needle spacing to properly calculate the amount of thread consumed.

Example:

Stitch and seam: 401 SSa-1

Stitches per inch: 8

Thickness of the seam: .075 inches (measured with a micrometer)

Length of the seam: 42 inches or 1.17 yds.

Union Special 401 Chainstitch Chart
Seam Thickness	8 SPI
.055 .060 .065 .070 .075	4.88 4.96 5.04 5.12 5.20

Consumption based on the mathematical equation:

C = 4 + 2ts

C = 4 + 2(.075 X 8) = 5.20

t = thickness of the seam

s = stitches per inch

1.17 yds X 5.20 = 6.08 yds / seam.

6.08 yds/seam X 1.15 = 7.00 yds per seam including a 15% waste factor.

Estimating Thread Consumption

As you can see from the Union Special chart, the more stitches per inch and the thickness of the seam impacts the amount of thread consumed. However, most heavy fabrics are sewn with fewer stitches per inch and most light fabrics are sewn with more stitches per inch. Therefore we have come up with the following estimates based on typical seam thickness and stitch length.

Stitch Type	Est. Total Consumption Ratio	Needle thread	Bottom thread
301 Lockstitch	3.0 to 4.0 (1)	50%	50%
401 Chainstitch	5.0 to 7.0	Lt. Wt. 40% (2) M. Wt. 50% H. Wt. 60%	60% 50% 40%
503 Overedge (2 thread) 504 Overedge (3 thread)	7.0 to 10.0 12.0 to 16.0	60% 25%	40% 75%
515 Safetystitch (4 thd.) 516 Safetystitch (5 thd.)	12.0 to 17.0 17.0 to 23.0	55% 37%	45% 63%
1. Use lower estimated thread consumption numbers for light-weight fabrics or long stitch lengths. 2. On the chainstitch construction, the amount of looper thread does not change unless the stitches per inch changes. On the other hand, the needle thread will change based on the thickness of the seam. Therefore, the percentage of needle thread goes up when the fabric gets heavier. Lt. Wt. (light weight) is generally like shirts and blouses; M. Wt. (medium weight) is generally like slacks or chinos; and H. Wt. (heavy weight) is generally like denim applications.

Example:

Stitch & Seam – 401 SSa-1

Length of seam – 42 inches or 1.17 yards

Fabric weight – Light weight

Estimated Thread Consumption = 1.17 yds. X 5.0 (Ratio) = 5.85 yds. / seam

5.85 yds/seam X 1.15 = 6.73 yds/seam including a 15% waste factor

Estimated needle thread = 6.73 X 40% = 2.69 yds

Estimated looper thread = 6.73 X 60% = 4.04 yds

Average Thread Consumption Totals by Garment

The following is a list of sewn products and thread consumption totals based on thread consumption reports conducted by our Technical Service Department. These thread consumption figures include a 25% waste factor and are based on a typical garment construction.

Product Sewn	Total Yds/Garment	Product Sewn	Total Yds/Garment
Men’s		Boy’s
Slack Jean Jean Short Work Pants Suit Coat Dress Shirt – long sleeve Work Shirt Knit Polo Shirt Fleece Sweat Shirt Tee Shirt Tank Top Knit Brief	225 200 160 238 175 131 115 130 280 63 58 68	Jeans Pants Jacket Dress Shirt Knit Shirt Baseball Cap	168 183 175 101 83 44
Women’s		Girl’s
Lined Coat Blazer Dress Skirt Blouse Pants Jeans Shorts Robe Night Gown Panties Bra	246 153 141 192 122 162 250 151 300 135 62 63	Blouse Dress Swim Suit	73 118 65

Estimating Thread Cost

The thread cost can be estimated by multiplying the thread consumed times the cost of thread in the same units. For example:

Men’s Dress Shirt thread consumption with 25% waste factor = 131 yds.

Average Cost of T-24 Poly Wrapped Core Thread = $4.50 / 6000 yard cone.

Cost per yard = $4.50 / 6000 = $.00075/yard

Stitches Per Inch (SPI) - What Should You Must Know

Introduction

When writing garment specifications, you should not neglect specifying the proper number of

stitches per inch that should be used in your sewn products. Why? Because the number of stitchesper inch can have a direct influence on the following: 1) the seam strength; 2) the stitch appearance;and 3) the seam elasticity on stretch fabrics.

An estimated seam strength formula was developed years ago for woven seams where one piece of fabric is placed on top of another with a specific seam margin and stitched with either a 301lockstitch or 401 chainstitch.

Obviously, the seam strength is dependent on a number of factors including:

           

Type & Weight of the Fabric

            Stitch & Seam Construction

            Stitches Per Inch

            Thread Type and Size

            Stitch Balance (Thread Tensioning)

Formula for Estimating Seam Strength on Woven Fabrics

301 Lockstitch - Estimated Seam Strength

= SPI X Thread Strength (lbs.) X 1.5*

* 1.5 is a factor based on the average loop strength ratio of most sewing threads.

= 10 SPI X 4.0 lbs. X 1.5 = 60 lb. strength

401 Chainstitch – Estimated Seam Strength

= SPI X Thread Strength (lbs.) X 1.7 *

* This factor is higher than a lockstitch because almost twice as much thread is consumed per inch of seam using a

chainstitch.

= 10 SPI X 4.0 lbs. X 1.7 = 68 lb. strength

From this formula, you can see the impact that stitches per inch, thread strength and stitch selectionhave on the strength of the seam. Generally, the more stitches per inch, the greater the seamstrength. There are rare cases where adding stitches per inch can actually damage the fabric so thatthe seam is weakened, however, this only happens on specific fabrics that can be damaged by excessive needle penetrations.

Given:

- 301 Lockstitch Superimposed Seam

- Thread Used Top & Bottom = T-24 Perma Core – Strength: 2.6 lbs.

SPI	6	8	10	12
Estimated Seam Strength	23.4 lbs	31.2 lbs	39 lbs	46.8 lbs

As you can see from the chart above, the stitches per inch has a tremendous impact on the strength of the seam, as long as the fabric doesn’t rupture before the thread. If the same seams were sewn with a lower tenacity spun polyester thread, this also will effect the resulting seam strength.

Given:

- 301 Lockstitch Superimposed Seam

- Thread Used Top & Bottom = T-27 Spun Poly – Strength: 2.2 lbs.

SPI	6	8	10	12
Estimated Seam Strength	20 lbs	26 lbs	33 lbs	40 lbs

Some manufacturers substitute a smaller bobbin thread when sewing lockstitch seams to minimize the number of times it takes the sewing operator to change the bobbin. Remember, however, that the resulting seam strength will be much less and will be determined by the strength of the bobbin thread and not the needle thread.

How to Measure the Stitch Length or Stitches Per Inch?

The stitch length is measured by measuring the number of lengths of thread found within one inch.Stitch counters are available from A&E that make this measurement easier, however, you can place a ruler next to the seam and perform the same task.

SPI is measured by counting the number of lengths of thread found within one inch. As you can see here, there are approximately 9 SPI sewn in this seam.

SPI Recommendations for Wovens & Knits

Below is a list of garments and the typical number of Stitches Per Inch recommended for each of them.

WOVEN GARMENTS

Garments	SPI	Comments	Garments	SPI	Comments
Denim Jeans, Jackets, Skirts	7 – 8	Fewer stitches per inch generally will give a more contrast stitchappearance.	Childrenswear	8 - 10	Usually 8 to 10 spi is adequate to provide adequate seam strength and at the same timeallow for quicker cycle times.
Twill Pants or Shorts	8 – 10	More stitches per inch will help minimize seam grinning.	Dresses, Skirts	10-12	Due to many of the operations being lockstitch, usually 10 – 12 spi is required to provide adequate seam strength.
Trousers, Dress Pants, Slacks	10-12	On some operations like serge panels, it may be desirable to use a longer stitch length.	Blindstitch Operations on Slacks,Dresses Skirts, etc.	3-5	A long stitch length is desirable to minimize the dimple or appearance of the needle penetration on the outside of the garment.
Dress Shirt or Blouse	14-20	Using more SPI llows the use of smaller diameter threads that will minimize seam puckering.	Buttonsew (4 hole button)	16	Buttonsew machines are cycle machines with a predetermined number of stitches per cycle.
Casual Shirts, Blouses, Tops	10-14	Using more SPI will give more of a tailored stitch appearance and better seam coverage when serging.	Buttonhole (1/2” purl or whip stitch)	85-90	Generally sewn vertically – approx. 85- 90 stitches with a lockstitch buttonhole machine.

When setting standards for stitches per inch, you should always keep in mind that more stitches per inch used in a seam requires longer sewing cycles to complete the seam. Longer sewing cycles translates in to higher labor costs and lower production levels. A sewing machine sewing at 5,000 SPM (stitches per minute) at 8 SPI will sew 17.4 yards of seam per minute. A sewing machine sewing at 5,000 SPM at 14 SPI will sew 9.9 yards of seam per minute.

More stitches per inch will also consume for thread per inch of seam. This will contribute to higher seam strength and more elastic seams, but will also increase the consumption of thread required to sew the garment.

Therefore, the recommendations listed above are common stitch levels that provide adequate seam strength but also take into consideration the factors just mentioned.

When sewing knit fabrics, you should always check for excessive “seam grinning” of the seam; and also check for “stitch cracking”. “Seam grinning” occurs when thread stitch balance is too loose allowing the seam to open up too much when stress is applied to it. “Stitch Cracking” is checked by applying pressure on the seam in the stitching direction. If the thread tensions are too tight or if you are not using enough stitches per inch, the threads will rupture as stress is applied on the seam. Therefore, the following recommendations have been made for the number of stitches per inch to be used on the following garments.

KNIT GARMENTS

Garments	SPI	Comments	Garments	SPI	Comments
Jersey T-shirts, Tops, Polos	10-12	Using more SPI increases the chance of needle cutting.	Swimwear	12 - 16	The more elastic the seam, the more SPI that should be used to minimize stitch cracking.
Underwear	12-14	The more elastic the seam, the more SPI that should be used to minimize stitch cracking.	Dresses, Skirts	10 - 12	The more elastic the seam, the more SPI that should be used to minimize stitch cracking.
In fantwear	10-12	The more elastic the seam, the more SPI that should be used to minimize stitch cracking.	Intimates	12 -16	The more elastic the seam, the more SPI that should be used to minimize stitch cracking.
Fleece	10-12	More stitches per inch are required to provide the proper seam coverage on fleece.	Stretch Knits (Lycra®, Spandex®, etc.)	14-18	More stitches per inch are required to provide the proper seam coverage on fleece.
Sweaters (Med. To Hvy.)	8-10	The more elastic the seam, the more SPI that should be used to minimize stitch cracking.	Hosiery, Socks	35-50	Usually sewn with very fine thread. More spi are required to minimize seam grinning and seam elasticity.

Summary

From the comments and information listed above, you can see how important adding specifications for Stitches Per Inch to your garment specification instructions. Using the correct number of stitches per inch can greatly enhance the strength, appearance and performance of the seam for a given fabric type and application.